West Sussex Review June 2009
The prospect of fine weather together with William Le Blanc-Smith’s excellent itinerary, which included four great houses, two lovely private gardens, a fine cathedral and two small historic churches, promised an interesting tour. In the event, it exceeded all expectations. One delight succeeded another as we were driven along the lush country lanes at the foot of the north and south slopes of the South Downs. This is a delightful part of the English countryside, mercifully spared the wide band of coastal development to the south. Finally, for the inner man and woman the comforts of the charming village hotel at Bosham, on the shores of Chichester harbour, with such helpful staff and delicious food which added to our enjoyment at the end of each day.
With such a plethora of delights it is difficult to single out individual favourites although a few random personal observations have crept in, but there was no doubt that throughout the tour there was more than enough to intrigue and satisfy all tastes.
Petworth House, designed in the 17th century, and described by Pevsner as ‘proud and patrician’ lies north of the Downs. It has a large and magnificent west front and grounds designed by Capability Brown. The overwhelming collection of paintings includes works by French, Italian, Dutch and British masters, sculpture from classical Greece and Rome and an impressive collection of silver, furniture and porcelain. The breathtaking Grinling Gibbons room is lined with his delicate carvings. Amongst so many treasures it is perhaps trivial to mention personal favourites – two small, vivid watercolours by Turner showing two rooms as they were in his day – where pictures, now faded, appear in their original condition.
Later that day we visited Uppark which is situated high on the West Downs with views towards the Solent. The house and contents were severely damaged by fire in 1989 but many of the contents were rescued. A prolonged period of restoration, employing skilled craftsmen, has enabled it to be brought back to its former glory. It contains many treasures from successive Grand Tours. One singular minor item was the cabinet-on-stand, similar to several lacquered examples at Petworth, which is inlaid with pietra dura decoration. The warren of servants’ quarters had an unexpected feature in the form of a cave-like ‘Bat Hole’ carrying a notice warning that only ‘official’ bat enthusiasts would be allowed entry!
The following day we set off for Parham, an Elizabethan house, facing the South Downs described by Simon Jenkins not only as ‘one of England’s top 290 houses’ but also as ‘a house of magic’. It has been little altered over the centuries and is full of treasures including paintings, furniture, porcelain and clocks; it also contains one of the country’s greatest collections of rare embroidery and tapestries. There is a lovely top floor Long Gallery with applied leaves and tendrils decorating the ceiling. It was a particular personal pleasure to revisit the circular stone dovecote in the park, which had been the reason for my original visit some years ago. Thanks to William, I was able to inspect the interior again and see what progress has been made on the restoration.
On our visit to Lancing College Chapel, which sits high up on an exposed site above the River Adur, we were met with the unexpected sight of a group of llamas. Turning our attention to the magnificent chapel, built in the 19th century in Gothic-revival style, by the founder of the College and his son we found it to be impressive and spacious with gaily decorated organ pipes in a gallery above the west end of the nave.
Holy Trinity Church, Bosham was close to our hotel and is the place from where Harold sailed in 1064 on his ill-fated voyage to Normandy - which is why Bosham is depicted on the Bayeux tapestry- so we paid a short visit to look at the 11th century tower and the three surviving Saxon openings on the interior face. We then set out for Arundel where we visited the Cathedral, founded in the 14th century and built in the French Gothic style, and then on to Arundel Castle. First we visited the Fitzalan Chapel, founded in 1390, which is the burial place of the Dukes of Norfolk. Then the castle, the main part of which was rebuilt in the 19th century in what Pevsner described as ‘an unfeeling Windsor-Castle style’! But eventually we arrived at the magnificent mahogany-panelled library dating from 1801, said to be one of the finest Regency interiors in the world. It contains a matching pair of ivory cabinets-on-stands, one of which I was informed, served as a travelling medicine chest – this seems very unusual.
The extensive grounds contained the recently completed Collector Earl’s Garden designed by Julian and Isobel Bannerman (other gardens by them include work at Highgrove for Prince Charles and the British Memorial Garden to 9/11 in New York). This was a very impressive creation of a Jacobean-style garden with formal courts and a domed pergola inside which is a stalagmite fountain with a gilded coronet ‘dancing’ on a jet of water.
The weather was glorious so we were able to see the two private gardens to best advantage.
At Little Wantley, near Storrington, we were welcomed by the kind owner with coffee and home-made cakes, including delicious flapjacks. It was a memorable garden, carved out of a boggy field, and had a large artificial lake with islands surrounded by willows, bamboo, alders and birches. There were roses, in full bloom everywhere, together with wisteria and clematis – it was hard to drag ourselves away.
Our last visit was to Rymans at Dell Quay, Appeldram, at the upper end of Chichester Harbour. The house, unexpectedly, included a 14th century town house now attached to the present house and we were allowed to wander around the fascinating ground floor. The garden, surrounding the house, was full of interest. It included a walled garden with flowering shrubs, roses and vegetables and then one came upon an avenue of poplars ending in a wrought-iron gate through which the 12th century village church could be seen.
Rymans marked the end of a truly enjoyable excursion. We are greatly indebted to William for his meticulous planning and attention to detail – even our helpful driver felt he had to endorse the well-deserved tributes.
Dr. Jean Hansell
